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Fascinating India

From the time we first arrived, to now, as we prepare for our departure, India has supplied unending adventure. Our view of the world has expanded greatly. Nearly all aspects of Indian lifestyle and culture differs enough from that of Europe or the US to provide a continual visual stimulus.

Kim and I arrived in the south Indian state of Kerala on August 26th. After a few days relaxing and a day trip to India's southern point, we started north taking in a backwater tour on our way to historic, relaxed Kochi where we celebrated the coming Oman festival.

Heading north on a 54 hour train wasn't fun, but the food continued to be excellent (ignoring the multitude of cockroaches scurrying about in the coach), the sights memorable and - no surprise by now - we continued to make more friends!

Delhi was hot, humid, dirty and hectic. Fortunately we didn't get hassled and ripped off like some of the others staying at our guest house. Our guest house provided a welcome respite. Also we had a delightful time meeting with family friends Rakesh and Rashmi Verma who run a local software house here.

The host at our guest house easily arranged a taxi for our trip through Rajasthan. At only $25/day for the taxi, driver and all their costs (lodging, meals, petrol, etc.), we found this to be a superior method to visit Rajasthan on our own schedule, stopping at will, and providing a helpful, friendly guide for our visit. Pappu Goswami turned out to be an excellent (conservative, knowledgeable, friendly) driver, who knew the region (and most of the other drivers) well.

We spent 16 days driving and touring Rajasthan, visiting Agra, Jaipur, Udaipur (the 'Venice of the East'), Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, then returning back to Delhi via Jodphur and Jaipur again. We found Rajasthan to be dry and arid, colorful and friendly, a bit more familiar with tourists than the south, and full of fascinating forts and dazzling palaces with brilliant rooms and exotic decorations.

Overall Impressions

Many here are poor and suffering is common. Beggars with amputated limbs and malnutrition are everywhere, but much less than 1% of the people see. Instead there are the common laborers, working hard with few mechanical advantages or aids, and many who are going to school at the various levels and coming out with excellent English and computer skills, quite worldly and eager to enter the capitalist system.

Life here is incredibly cheap. We're staying at moderate hotels with lots of character and sometimes air conditioning and TV for about $15/night, while meals (consistently better than anywhere in Europe!) are about $5 for a good dinner for both of us.

Working on our web site is proving much more difficult than anticipated due to our pretty fast paced travel schedule and the low quality internet cafes: they're everywhere but have abysmal connections and software!

Rural life is very basic with many still doing everything manually, with little to no help from machines. Dirt is carried with bowls on the head, not a tractor or even a wheelbarrow. Life moves at the pace of farm animals and there appears much time to relax and watch life.

Urban life is completely different with mechanization everywhere and the fumes to prove it! People are busier, less prone to strike up a conversation. Posters everywhere urge youth to learn Java, Active Server Pages, C++, eCommerce and otherwise boost their computer skills.

Suffering here abounds. The wealthy generally appear to live in the cities while the rural folks are generally much poorer. It is obvious that many folks live a completely rural lifestyle, without car, reliable water sources, or hope of much education. Kids walking in their school uniforms are everywhere, but too many children are tending sheep at the same time. Still, human spirit knows few bounds and invariably people are quick with a wave and smile--even in the time your taxi speeds by.

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