Norway

Land of Fjords and Strong Communal Moirés

Having spent a few weeks traveling to Los Angeles for his sister's wedding, fixing up our camper van Spot for Norway's steep hills, and wrapping up other details John arrived in Norway ready for a few months of relaxation and less traveling. Unfortunately this was to be delayed for some time.

After a pleasant drive up the western coast of Denmark, John took the ferry to Oslo. The next day John attended Norwegian Wood, a world famous rock venue for international stars. Afterwards, John came out to discover that Spot had gone missing. Someone stole it.

The next two weeks were consumed with dealing with the insurance, police, and reordering replacement items. It was simply an ordeal. At his tolerance level, John eventually took off in a rental car for Norway's southern coast--renowned for being the sunniest place in Norway. Well, they still get rain and sometimes lots of it. Revising course, John headed northward a bit to Rjukan, scene of the famous WWII daring sabotage of the Nazis source of Heavy Water. Staying in a cabin dating back to the 15th century, John mapped out the basic plan for the Norway trip.

Rain continued, but up on the high Hardangervidda plateau, it fit in with the bleak, haunted landscapes. Driving west to Stavanger, John got to drive down the infamous Lysafjord's 21 hairpin curves, and took the ferry right under the Pulpit Rock. Rain prevented journeys to the chock stone and to the top of Pulpit Rock and also saved a bit of time. In gamle Stavanger, John continued ordering replacements for things stolen and fought with others to gain 30 minute access slots at the local library--internet cafes are only in the planning stages there currently. Heading back to Oslo to pick up Kim, John stumbled upon the national folk music and dancing championships in Voss. He happily listened to hardanger fiddle for hours and watched the various shoddishes, haumbos and other intricate dances he only distantly remembered from his Minnesota days-too shy to even try any of them out again..

Kim and John were gleefully reunited in Oslo in early July. After taking in some of the local sites, we drove north to Jotunheimen National Park and amidst snow flurries hiked famous Bessegen Ridge (spectacular raw mountain & fjord scenery). Headed northwest next through the waterfall strewn Geiranger Fjord and then the rocky and whimsical Trollvegen landscape, bedecked with hundreds of rock cairns. Although there were frequent showers, we enjoyed the double rainbows.

Motored north along the "Crystal Coast" to above the Arctic Circle where we had mixed rain, sun, cold and 24 hrs of daylight. Met Ellen, Marit, and Meeta, 3 delightful Norsk female psychologists while camping on Senja island and followed their lead for a swim in the arctic waters and then with their offer to visit them in Tromsø.

We then ventured through quaint villages with red fishing buildings and lofty seagulls of the Vesterlæn islands and the really gorgeous Lofoten Islands with its turquoise waters and sweeping mountains. Spent a couple nights in a rorbuer - a renovated fishing cabin - and then hiked up to a DNT cabin in the mountains that was very, very swell - especially since we had it all to ourselves! Met a fun Italian couple Marco and Emma earlier in the day.

Spot's saga continued to evolve, so upon learning that gosh and golly the police found our stolen Westfalia, we bee lined it back to Oslo. (see Spot's story for details)

On the road again, now with Spot, we puttered westward to further explore mountains, fjords and the Norwegian coast line whilst trying to eat 6 weeks of food and drink a month's worth of wine (that were left untouched in the van) in 3 weeks time. Hiked western Jotunheimen where he received a suitable Norwegian rendition of happy birthday and the Leirvassbu hut wardens made John a cake. At Snellvosbreen, went on a guided glacier walk skipping over crevasses with our crampons and ropes - very much fun. Spent time exploring the fjords, and a few extra days in Lærdal when Spot broke down (coil/distributor problems). Left Norway after visiting its two most popular destinations, Flåm and Bergen (including the fishy fiske market and playful aquarium penguins).

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